Wood rot in external weatherboards - Colourbond it?

Hi there.

I hope you guys can give me some direction please.

Got an issue of wood rot in some of the external weatherboards on some of the units. I have attached some photos to give an idea.

I've have had a builder come in and he suggested it's a big job which could cost a fair bit: cutting out all the rotten weatherboard, treating them, finding similar weatherboard profile to replace them. He also said that the rot may have gone to other places which we won't know until we start ripping the weatherboards off.
I'm basically trying to come up with as many solutions to the problem as I can with cost being an issue well. One of them is:

Rather than ripping out, cutting, treating and replacing with weatherboards, can we simply stud over the existing weatherboards and then colourbond over the top of it?

The key question I guess is by colourbonding over it, will I stop the rot from getting worse or will it continue to spread underneath?

Are there any other options without ripping off the existing weatherboards?

Thanks you in advance for your help.

 

^ ^ this. Damage looks like being caused by leaking downpipe and window seal. Other is just age and weathering. Fix the cause then replace timbers and repaint as builder suggested.

 

Thanks you guys. I appreciate your advice.

I'm looking at replacing the window frames for sure .The downpipes and guttering have already been fixed.

As mentioned, all in really looking for is a way to keep the units going and ensure their sustainability for as long as possibly. The units were bought for rental yield. I thought colourbonding then might work best for that. Less re painting, no issues with rot etc etc.

The reason colourbonding came to mind is that I have a large stockpile of it already, mostly good, almost new stuff, due to most of my home town being re-roofed after a hail storm. Even got new sheets from the roofers! Was think I could use this to help cut costs down.

 

Replacing weatherboards is not difficult (assuming you can find the right profile). If the studs have rotted, it’s best to find out now. Hiding it won't help.

You don t need a builder for this work, a carpenter or skilled handy person (experience with installing weatherboards) would be fine. Get more than one quote.

 

It would be hard for any builder to quote on those external walls,because most of the rot is long term from a leaking 45* bend and maybe the gutter outlet..
So all the wall frames from the eves down depending as the frame will be hardwood may have to be re-framed also and the deeper you dig the more you will find..

 

It's very easy to clad over your timber and make the rot worse.

Replacing old timber external board isn't really THAT big of a job though?

 

Hmmmm.

Ok, sounds like I am going to have to chop out, treat, and replace the affected weatherboards, and then, perhaps later, to add value and longevity to the units, clad the outside in the Colourbond I have.

If I'm going to do that, and fix the window sills I guess I'll get the carpenter to ensure the sills cater for the battens and Colourbond.

Thoughts?

 

Yes, fair point .

I'm going to head up with a carpenter mate of mine and see what we can do. I'll get him to do the window sills and look at the rest of it.

On the north side of the units, in an unused, undercover area there are good quality weatherboards which we pull off and can use to replace the rotten ones on the south. Can then simply fibro up the south area after.

 

Hi mate,
Just pull off the rotten boards and check the frames then clad in the colorbond you have . Cheap.

 

Ahhhhh, yes. Don't bother spending time and money taking off good weatherboards to re-apply, just clad over the gaps!!?
Do I have to use battens for the colourbond or can I simply go straight into the weatherboard?

 

Yes, true, but if I remove all the rotten board before doing so, and check the frames behind, and THEN clad, that should be ok?

 

I'll warn U...wet weatherboards will attract the flying QUEEN termites in a wkend (& I'm NOT joking)...cladding will just temporarily hide it...U need to TERMITE PROOF before ANY cover-over...or it WILL come back to bite U. U could lose the WHOLE property if it gets infested with termites, under the cladding. They claim U can't termite proof it urself...U need professionals...that's a LIE...& there is NO law to say so...U CAN...just get the right products & USE plenty (& use self protection doing so)...& recheck. Like using flea-control on a dog. Most of all...as said above...if U have leakage, blocked gutters or damp probs...it WILL pay to have them FIXED. U could lose the WHOLE LOT if U just want to cut corners. RENT money should always be divided to be READY for maintenance if the property is aging. Insurance won't cover ur ignorance or arrogance. If U spend ALL rent money & don't consider that...it WILL come back to BITE U.

 

Thank you for your reply and advice .
Yes, that was an original option, but after advice was was thinking it taking the affected boards off and then clad over it all .
Yes, was thinking of using cladding since I have access to loads of it and in terms of maintainance it's easier than repainting every 5-10 years .
I also wonder it it's quicker to clad than paint it......?

I do take your point on it maybe looking out of place though. I ran it by a real estate up there and they seemed to think it a good idea for adding value..........?

 

Again, a very good point .Hence me wanting to do the right thing . Don't mean to be arrogant at all, however I have perhaps been a little ignorant, again the reason for me posting this .

I was going to get a pest person in there to check first and treat.
I'm a few hours away making the real all the harder .My managing agent is good though.

 

Just re-install second hand from a demo yard and leave the other section as it is but the area will have to treated before you start the entire footprint -the cost for new per mts is very high,plus you don't have to replace all the external just the rotten ones..imho..

 

Yes, that's an option too. Thanks for the idea.
Is rather not be buying new boards . The difficulty is finding ones the same profile though .

 

ok - was in a sort of similar position with one of my properties. 1950's wb commission style home where the boards themselves were in remarkably great condtion but sadly the 20 or so coats of paint were not. In the end I bit the bullet and reclad the place. Stripping the boards took a day for 2 of us.

I used a cement sheet WB system BGC Innova - Nuline Plus | Weatherboard Style House Facades (there are plenty of manufacturers around) and employed 2 carpenters to install some sisalation & re-board it. Took them approx 2.5 days. Job done. Total cost was around $6000 + painting.

Allow a little more if there are studs needing to be replaced because of rot.