Put my foot through ceiling

Discussion in 'Repairs & Maintenance' started by TapTap, 19th Jun, 2018.

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  1. TapTap

    TapTap Well-Known Member

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    Hi guys,
    Can’t believe it! I put my foot (almost) through the plasterboard ceiling at my mums house while stowing away some furniture for her. :eek: There’s now a 4 x way crack and the board is somewhat sitting up/not flat.

    I’m tempted to make cuts along the crack and see if I can get it to sit flat, then use base coat (which I have on hand) to hold it in place before top-coating/repainting. Has anyone had any experience repairing similar ? or do you think I need to cut out a square and replace with a new piece?
    I'm handy with a hawk and trowel so I may get away with this crime yet :D
    Thanks in advance
     

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  2. wylie

    wylie Moderator Staff Member

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    I'd gently push it up to level, tape it up, treat it like you would a plaster join. If you can do that, it will be easier than cutting a hole and taping and plastering that join.
     
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  3. willair

    willair Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Turn it into a skylight..
     
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  4. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

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    That's what happens when you live in the 80's and take up dancing on the ceiling.

    [​IMG]
     
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  5. Joynz

    Joynz Well-Known Member

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    Ask on the Renovate Forums site. Plasterer Rob from how2plaster.com.au may respond. I assume that the bit that has come down is not attached to any framing?

    You may have to add some framing (a noggin) to attach it to. You could glue and screw (using the blue plaster glue or perhaps cornice cement. But you may still need to scrape out along the cracks and fill...)

    I don’t think base coat will hold it in place.
     
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  6. Stoffo

    Stoffo Well-Known Member

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    You could try to backblock it.
    Aka, V out the cracks so you can push it back up to (or past) level.
    Using cornice adhesive (as it sets quickly) spead a large ish amount over the footprint area in the ceiling and place a square offcut of plaster on top (between ceiling joists).
    Make sure the original area is supported/level (length of timber) until the backblock takes, about two beers/30min.
    Fill, sand and repaint ceiling to finish

    All whilst trying not to break anything else :oops:

    (Back in the old days all joins were backblocked between the ceiling joists to prevent saging of the join, these days fiberglass is added to the plaster and it is aerated during manufacture to make ceiling/span sheeting stronger and lighter )
     
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  7. Westminster

    Westminster Tigress at Tiger Developments Business Member

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    You're dead. Run now ;)
     
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  8. The Y-man

    The Y-man Moderator Staff Member

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    Blame some big possums.

    The Y-man
     
  9. TapTap

    TapTap Well-Known Member

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    Thanks @Stoffo, I’ll give this a crack (excuse the pun). I’ve got some spare board but will need to get cornice mix. Like the idea of backboarding, and 2 beers) haha

    Thanks all!
     
  10. Paul@PAS

    Paul@PAS Tax, Accounting + SMSF + All things Property Tax Business Plus Member

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    Its not a great place to store things unless the roof truss is re-engineered and strengthened. The suggestion you put your foot through the floor indicates a potential concern that there is no horizontal support for that extra load. Roof trusses are designed to accept a load from the roof tiled / materials but placing items in the space within shifts the load outwards. In time the roof may bow and spread. (I had a house where the prior owner did this and it was a costly fix)

    Older homes may have over engineered trusses or may have appalling trusses, Modern homes have roof trusses engineered to minimise cost and wont cope with any unexpected loads. Even a post-construction AC unit may need additional bracing for the suspended unit load

    A common solution is to screw (!) flat boards however care has to be taken not to get electrocuted or create a fire hazard and ventilation problem by covering insulation esp above wet areas.

    I had a general licensed builder review our issue and he had the trade skills to address it.
     
  11. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

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    Remember: beers after not before. Otherwise you may end up with a few more holes.
     
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  12. TapTap

    TapTap Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Paul, I didn’t think about the weight impact on existing structure. Luckily it’s only a few very light items so I don’t think they will pose an issue. House is very well built but it did have a massive ac unit retrofitted, that is stored up there. I might take a look to see if they performed any additional bracing when installing.

    Cheers
     
  13. craigc

    craigc Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking the exact same thing! :)
     
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  14. Paul@PAS

    Paul@PAS Tax, Accounting + SMSF + All things Property Tax Business Plus Member

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    Ditto solar system. One side of the roof ?? Very few do any work to brace the roof. We had a builder check and he agreed it needed some to avoid spreading over time. Roof trusses arent engineered for a 400kg load on one side of a frame. The trusses have been pruned back endlessly so they are closer but far thinner and just gang plates at joints with little bracing.

    Solar install quote fine print says as much. "Consult a builder"....
     
  15. bob shovel

    bob shovel Well-Known Member

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    Grow a few more plants up there to cover the costs of a plasterer to repair it ;)
     
  16. Perthguy

    Perthguy Well-Known Member

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    Also, you want to finish with top coat, not base coat. Ask me how I know :rolleyes:
     
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  17. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

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    @Perthguy - or use an all in one. ..

    [​IMG]

    I'm bot going to ask..:rolleyes: