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mirror level with tile

Discussion in 'Renovation & Home Improvement' started by B-Man, 1st Sep, 2015.

  1. B-Man

    B-Man Well-Known Member

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    im currently renovating my bathroom and wanting to have the mirror sit level with the tile rather than gluing it ontop of the tiles.

    the mirror is only 3mm thick and the tiles are 10mm thick.
    the walls are stone covered in mortar. can i just add mortar mix to that area to fill the space ~7mm where the mirror is going then glue the mirror onto that hopefully getting it flush??
     
  2. WestOz

    WestOz Well-Known Member

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    Getting the mortar exact to get a flush mirror/tile finish could be tricky.
    You could possibly screw 25x7mm timber (like batons but smaller) to the wall, glue the mirror to it

    Is the space between the tiles allowed for the mirror exact or is there a bit of room to play with?
    Would these help with a bit of packing behind them, i.e. a washer or two?
    http://www.bunnings.com.au/award-silver-mirror-corner-clips-4-pack_p1731474

    Perhaps you could pump decent dobs of silicon and push the mirror against it until flush, support it until cured
     
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  3. Westminster

    Westminster Tigress at Tiger Developments Business Member

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    To be honest I've only ever seen it level with the tiles and not on top.

    Just bog it up with Liquid Nails for Mirrors and padded mounting tape

    You might need to paint the mortar to seal it so it won't react with the liquid nails. If you need to paint then you need to let it dry for quite awhile (ie a week or so) as it will react with the liquid nails too.
     
  4. Agent99

    Agent99 Well-Known Member

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    We set one with dobs of silicone about 100mm away from tiles so that the depth difference didnt look out of place.
    Looked as though it grew there !
     
  5. vbplease

    vbplease Well-Known Member

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    I'm about to do the same in my bathroom.. I'm planning on using 3mm plywood and then sikaflex spread very generously..
     
  6. Ace in the Hole

    Ace in the Hole Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Unless it's some good marine ply, it could swell in the damp conditions and be a problem.
    You don't have to have a complete backing as the mirror is flat, 4 corners with a stable material would be best IMO.
     
  7. vbplease

    vbplease Well-Known Member

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    Yeah happy to use sikaflex/silicone only, but I think 6mm is a bit thick. When pressing in to plumb in, if there isn't enough sikaflex the mirror will recess in too far and be a pain to fix..

    I recently did this with the floor waste puddle flange.. very fiddly work.
     
  8. Ace in the Hole

    Ace in the Hole Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    How about fibro sheet or some plastic packing, the kind they use to get window sills level and plumb.
     
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  9. vbplease

    vbplease Well-Known Member

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    4.5mm fibro sheeting would be perfect.
     
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  10. Arms

    Arms Active Member

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    7mm exterior villaboard would be even better
     
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  11. vbplease

    vbplease Well-Known Member

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    No need to accommodate the thickness of the sikaflex/silicone?
     
  12. pinkboy

    pinkboy Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    If the tiles are 10mm thick then there will be adhesive behind, which will be the extra 1-2mm taken up by sikaflex.

    Personally I would do it this way as well.

    pinkboy
     
  13. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

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    if all else fails, add a couple of layers of mirror to build out the wall ;)
     
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  14. GoOnAndTell

    GoOnAndTell Well-Known Member

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    you probably want the mirror to sit slightly proud of the tiles rather than the other way around, i would go 7mm board as well.
     
  15. B-Man

    B-Man Well-Known Member

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    just so happened i had a guy i know dropped in as he was chasing and item i might have and he is a builder so i asked him.

    ended up marking where the glue was going on the mirror and wall.
    smeared some patches on the wall where the blobs would line up to to give a good bond to the wall then pumped the rest of the tube of glue to the 8 spots on the mirror in nice big high blobs.

    lifted the mirror up and pushed it all the way in so the glue really pressed into the wall and used some of those self leveling tiles spacers to bring it back flush at the front.

    let it dry for a week and then filled the edge with grout. come up a treat.

    btw the mirror was 5mm so basically had about a 7mm gap to fill
    [​IMG]
     
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  16. JacM

    JacM VIC Buyer's Agent Business Member

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    I'd watch the moisture issue that was mentioned above. I've heard about that from numerous builders now. They do not endorse filling the gap between mirror and tiles.
     
  17. Richard Williams

    Richard Williams Buyers Agent - Southeast QLD Business Member

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    Your saying it needs a gap to breath?
     
  18. JacM

    JacM VIC Buyer's Agent Business Member

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    I'm not a builder, so I'm not saying any such thing other than that I've noticed on several occasions that builders have been reluctant to put grouting or sealant in between the mirror and tiles for reasons of concerns over moisture buildup. To be fair, that has been with regards to mirrors placed above the tile line and not surrounded by tiles. So I suppose that if moisture built up at ceiling level and dripped down behind the mirror, if it met with a bead of silicone at the base of the mirror, then it is reasonable to presume you'd have a moisture buildup jammed between the back of the mirror and the plaster, behind the bottom part of the mirror, immediately above the silicone bead. However if the mirror was entirely surrounded by tiles and sealed on its perimeter by grouting or silicone, I would imagine this would be a different scenario, because there'd be no place for moisture to appear on the wall above and "drip behind" the mirror.
     
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