Having a hard time drilling holes for curtain rods

Discussion in 'Renovation & Home Improvement' started by DrunkSailor, 25th Jun, 2017.

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  1. DrunkSailor

    DrunkSailor Well-Known Member

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    Hi everyone, I wanted to replace the old curtain rod brackets the previous owner had up but I'm having a hard time drilling a deep hole for the plugs and screws supplied with the rod. My apartment is double brick with cement plaster. The previous owner had only drilled as far in as the cement plaster then jammed and glued a bunch of green wall plugs in and screwed the brackets to that - It looked very messy and I couldn't understand why they did such a hack job. However I'm starting to consider doing that myself because even though I hired a hammer drill I'm still finding it very difficult to drill into the wall. The only difference is the hammer drill is much much louder.

    I heard something about window LINTELS so I'm wondering if this has anything to do with it? I'm drilling about 10cms directly above the window frame so I'd imagine I'd be hitting a window lintel if there was one however I've watched a ton of youtube videos on installing curtain rod brackets and none have mentioned window lintels.

    Any help?
     
  2. Kesse

    Kesse Well-Known Member

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    Are you using a masonary bit?
     
  3. DrunkSailor

    DrunkSailor Well-Known Member

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    Yeah. I used a masonry bit that can only be used with a regular drill and I used the masonry bits that came with the hammer drill. The only difference was the hammer drill was much louder.
     
  4. WestOz

    WestOz Well-Known Member

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    lol, a sharp one at that.
    Not common but possible it has angle lintel, varies all over the place depending many things.
    Try coming more than 200mm wider than the frame, make the rod longer etc.
    lintel - Google Search
     
  5. WestOz

    WestOz Well-Known Member

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    Or, go higher with a longer drop
     
  6. DrunkSailor

    DrunkSailor Well-Known Member

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    Hmm, the bits have a lot of wear and tear on them and the one I'm using does look pretty rounded - the diamond shape edge has been worn all the way back and is really smoothed out. I'd try using the brand new masonry bit I bought from bunnings the other day but it's only designed for a regular drill.

    Perhaps tomorrow I'll buy a new drill bit and try again. Thanks
     
  7. DrunkSailor

    DrunkSailor Well-Known Member

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    To the left of the window frame just on the outside of it is a POWER SOCKET. I was told not to drill anywhere in line with this because the power lines might be running up it. After that I can't go any further left or I'll hit the wall so my only option is right on inside edge of the window frame OR actually on the wooden frame itself but it won't look as good.

    If LINTELS are not a common issue I'll try using the new masonry bit first and see if that solves it
     
  8. DrunkSailor

    DrunkSailor Well-Known Member

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    From the top of the window frame to the cornice is only 18cm of space. The holes I'm trying to drill are actually only 6cm above the frame. Do you think something other than brick needs to be drilled through?
     
  9. WestOz

    WestOz Well-Known Member

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    Prob worn out the "masonry" bit drilling into steel, need a steel bit for steel, but lintels are very tough steel, decent $'s for a bit that will do the job, be cheaper to pay a handyman

    Is this in WA? think of the thickness of the brick (~100mm), you only need to drill the depth required for the plug/screw (~40mm).

    If you post a pic I'll get a better idea what your trying to do

    How much was the rental? should but yourself a cheap cordless hammer drill (does both normal & hammer) from bunnies, handy to have when needed.
     
  10. WestOz

    WestOz Well-Known Member

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    What I meant with drill depth is assuming the window is on an external double brick wall, the power cord to the wall outlet will be running down the hollow cavity between the double brick down to the height of the wall outlet, a hole drilled in the internal wall for the outlet, the cord pulled through the hole connected to the outlet. So as long as you don't drill through the width of the brick (long drill bit) you should be ok.
     
  11. DrunkSailor

    DrunkSailor Well-Known Member

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    I'm in Melbourne. I purchased the apartment for 236 at the start of the year. I'm using a cordless dewalt 18v hammer drill I borrowed off someone online. I think the bit was already worn because I only drilled for about 10-20seconds before I realized it was no better than a regular drill.

    Yes, you're right, the screw is only 45mm long so I shouldn't be hitting steel yet. Here's a couple of photos: Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

    Thanks mate
     
  12. DrunkSailor

    DrunkSailor Well-Known Member

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    Well here's a shot of the drill bit: Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

    This is my first time working with masonary bits but I'm guessing that's about as worn as that get? Is a lot smoother than the brand new one I bought from bunnings (unfortunately, I can't use it in the hammer drill according to the packaging - it's designed for a regular drill).
     
  13. WestOz

    WestOz Well-Known Member

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    The steel plate will only be ~10mm behind the render, spray some water in the hole to remove the drill dust and you'll prob see steel.
    Would have taken ~3sec to go through the soft stuff and hit steel, once you hit that you were going nowhere, just hammer bouncing on the steel for daaayyys, through your wrist etc.

    From the pic, personally, I'd be screwing the brackets to the timber (you can go wider than the brackets with the rod if you want wider coverage).
    If you want to go to the trouble, make up a pelmet to make the top look tidier.

    The other options are;
    Hang a curtain or blind within the frame diameter, or
    Bring your drill holes out wider to clear the steel, or
    Drill steal with the right bit (not a cheap one), or
    Keep going as is, maybe you'll eventually melt/smash your way through it (joke) ;)
     
  14. DrunkSailor

    DrunkSailor Well-Known Member

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    I thought the steel would sit behind the first brick and in between the exterior and interior bricks which would give me the depth I need to anchor the screws?
     
  15. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

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    A fair guess but not all buildings were created equally. Usually the leg of the lintel will be inside the cavity but there's always the exception especially if the two lintels (external & internal) would block the cavity.
     
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  16. Joynz

    Joynz Well-Known Member

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    Agree with the advice about a new drill bit - but vacuum out the hole if you need to - don't spray water in there!
     
  17. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

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    Agree with @Joynz but a length of plastic tube or a straw and blow hard. Don't have your face in the firing line or you'll get covered in red dust.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: 26th Jun, 2017
  18. WestOz

    WestOz Well-Known Member

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    lol I didn't mean flood it, just a quick shot with a spray bottle to expose/see, no dif to the moisture when bogged.
    But like scotty said or even a scape with a screwdriver etc, give it a tap and you'll hear it.
     
  19. wylie

    wylie Moderator Staff Member

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    I'd patch the hole and drill into the timber :)
     
  20. datto

    datto Well-Known Member

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    A masonry drill bit should go through that wall like a hot knife through butter. You must be hitting the lintel.

    Try moving the brackets higher or lower.