DIY picture frames

Hi fancy people

Has any handy folk made their own picture frames from scratch? Not a kit

We have some non standard pictures and art that needs framing and hanging. I'm considering a diy option

 

pics

 

Bob, the op shops and the tip shops have lots of frames to choose from, just chuck away the content. I bought three prints recently in the UK and wanted identical frames so bought them at Spotlight yesterday, but two get one free and framed them, worked really well. If yours are Non standard buy a bigger frame and some card from an arts supply place. Good luck, I'm just about to start one of those corrugated iron look vegie beds, young bloke at Bunnings told me I would only need 30 cm of soil and put straw in the bottom. ( off topic)

 

Nope but Pinterest has lots of DIY ideas for them

Pinterest

 

All you need is: Mitre saw (or mitre box/tenon saw), selected timber moulding (skirting/architrave, moulding etc with rebated back), 3mm mdf back board, wriggle nails, mitre cramps and pva & @bob shovel's your uncle.

 

Hey Bob, depends what the art work is on, just canvas etc...

Perhaps something to consider;
I slapped this together in ~ an hour this morn, 70x30 pine, ran the power saw through it for the mirror to slot in, in your case glass if your going that way.

 

Prague drawing

From darwin

And the fav!

Approx 1m x 600mm

I was thinking the mdf and a nice moulding from bunns. I could paint as needed
So general consensus is glass isn't needed?

 

Also need some kids stuff hung up that can change each week they make something
How could i forget pintrest!??

I want to do this but long approx 2m x a4 height to fill a wall


Love the American influence via pintrest

 

Glass over paper (may need to check if 2mm is still available/suitable for the size or 3mm. UV stable?

 

So do you still need help?

 

Nah! He's beyond help.

 

Do you deliver?

 

Only steak & kidney, no liver.

 

So i don't need to worry about glass and just glue the pictures to mdf then set in behind fancy moulding

 

Why not glass? I would use glass or perspex or something to keep all the gunk off.
I like the turtles.

 

Perhaps I would have if you were still local, not now your back over east, Panthers country by the looks of it.

This, if ya care about em long-term.

Also, watch the glue you use doesn't seep through the canvas, stuff the paint.

Best to cut the mdf smaller, fold over and staple, route out the frame to accomidate mdf & glass, insert, pin it in with staples

 

only because its easier to leave it out! Ill look into it

ill google glues, might try a watered down pva

 

That's what it's for.

 

lol Scott.

If there's a craft shop in the area they should be able to help you out

 

For mirror or other frames consider using old timber skirting boards, picture rails or architraves. The earlier image seems to have used pic rails. Many recycled shops have them in distressed condition or even sanded and acid treated to remove old paints and they make a terrific frame and stain up with tons of character.

To get corners and joints done well my tip is to :
- Cut 45o angles using a mitre saw (not a hand saw!). Measure precise length using the inside of the proposed frame as the guide. Mark timber and ensure consistent cuts to CENTRE of the mark. and
- Join timbers using a biscuit joiner and biscuits. These are cheap wedges of porous fibre timber which look like little milk arrowroots (hence called biscuits). The joiner plunge cuts a slot in the angle of each side using a jig system so both sides are identically aligned. The holes made by the joiner are filled with PVA glue and the biscuits inserted and two pieces assembled in a L shape. The biscuit absorbs PVA and expands and hardens for a very tight joint. No nails. Check for square and retain in a vice / jig etc clamped for light pressure to restrict tendency to spring or move while wet. .A small scrap of MDA can also be pinned to the corner to retain shape temporarily. Do that for two pieces L shaped. Then when all done dry join the remaining two and recheck square, glue etc and then after 24hrs should be as square as Bill Shortens head. Add a backboard of thin MDA (stapled to back). Prior to assembly and glue etc consider if a router is needed to flush mount the MDA /glass or other protection is required. Depth of router should reflect thickness of glass, frame contents and MDA backing. If glass not used MDA can be flush mount stapled at rear as its not visible.. Many mouldings have a recess anyway to avoid router.

Cheap biscuit joiners should do the job. Ozito $128+. Not a craftsmans tool but will get by.
Product

I used to work and Black & Decker.... The Accountant with other skills. I cant shoot.