Bathroom exhaust fan, IXL (3 in 1) quotes help?

Discussion in 'Renovation & Home Improvement' started by Edu, 7th Apr, 2021.

Join Australia's most dynamic and respected property investment community
  1. Edu

    Edu Member

    Joined:
    29th Jan, 2021
    Posts:
    12
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Hi all,

    I'm going to need to install a bathroom an IXL 3 in 1 (fan light and heat) in my bathroom.

    Keep in mind my bathroom does not have a exhaust fan only a light. It doesn't have a powerpoint either.

    I've got a number of quotes and curious about why the differences.

    Quote 1: He said he will install the fan ONLY connected to the light switch so that it turns on when you turn on the light for $200.
    Quote 2: He said he will install fan ONLY with a separate switch for $500.
    Quote 3: He said he will install the IXL (fan, light and 2x heater) with new wiring + 3 switches for $1200.

    My question is are these reasonable quotes? Can you share your experience with quotes? Why do I feel ripped off for some reason.
     
  2. Shogun

    Shogun Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    26th May, 2018
    Posts:
    2,894
    Location:
    Perth
    1. An fan is a easy installation.

    I am guessing heater needs a power line run from meter box.

    I paid $160 for a fan supply and install.
    A power point was $130 a long way from meter box. I would have guess a couple of hundred to install heater/fan
     
  3. bashworth

    bashworth Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    18th Jun, 2015
    Posts:
    258
    Location:
    Dandenong
    I don't know why you feel ripped off.

    He has told you the price for what you asked and then given you two cheaper options.

    Option 1. Fan run off the lighting circuit but; no cables down the wall to the switch no new switch. (Probably won't need to go in roof space.
    Option 2. Split the lighting circuit and have to run a cable down the wall to a new double switch.
    Option 3. Finding a power circuit to run the heat lamps run cable to IXL plus 3 cables tdown wal to heavy duty 3 gang switch.
     
  4. Edu

    Edu Member

    Joined:
    29th Jan, 2021
    Posts:
    12
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Those are three separate quotes from three different people. I'm just wondering regardless who I go with, are they over the top or not.

    Maybe I need to ask does option 3 include its own breaker onthe switch board, you know similar to the ones for lights/ac etc
     
  5. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    18th Jun, 2015
    Posts:
    27,255
    Location:
    Sydney or NSW or Australia
    There is no need for a separate circuit. The work is in getting the control cabling down to your switch.

    No idea whether the existing conduits in your wall have space for the additional cables, if the existing cables are in conduit or tacked to the studs in the wall or buried in render & tiles.
     
  6. Edu

    Edu Member

    Joined:
    29th Jan, 2021
    Posts:
    12
    Location:
    Melbourne
    No existing conduits, its all fresh. Everything has to be done from scratch. Also why do you say there is no need for a separate circuit? what about the heat lamps?
     
  7. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    18th Jun, 2015
    Posts:
    27,255
    Location:
    Sydney or NSW or Australia
    You engage a professional ie a licensed electrician. They will check the existing loading on a power circuit (16 amps), 4 heat lamps will draw 1.5 amps, about the same as your kettle - in most instances you won't need a separate circuit.

    Is there a fan, light, heater on the market which works by remote control not wired?
     
  8. Edu

    Edu Member

    Joined:
    29th Jan, 2021
    Posts:
    12
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Fair enough, i'm not sure about the remote controlled fan/light/heater device.
    But thanks for your information.
     
  9. jaybean

    jaybean Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    20th Jun, 2015
    Posts:
    4,752
    Location:
    Here!
    I'm wondering the same too.

    Similar to OP, I want to replace my light with a heater / light combo (no exhaust), and I want to avoid having to tear open the wall to install a new cable. It's a double brick house so this would be hell. I was hoping I could just replace the existing light with it but judging by this thread it seems opening up the wall is the only option :(
     
  10. Edu

    Edu Member

    Joined:
    29th Jan, 2021
    Posts:
    12
    Location:
    Melbourne
    I'm just curious about quotes around and what is considered a reasonable quote.
     
  11. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    18th Jun, 2015
    Posts:
    27,255
    Location:
    Sydney or NSW or Australia
  12. Paul@PAS

    Paul@PAS Tax, Accounting + SMSF + All things Property Tax Business Plus Member

    Joined:
    18th Jun, 2015
    Posts:
    23,555
    Location:
    Sydney
    Most sparkies would drop a cable down the internal wall and wire to the ceiling to a switch. A drill hole through to the cavity may be all it will be and they will just pull it through. . And a wire from another light source etc to ceiling mount. Also depends on the circuit loads. Those 3 in 1s are old technology and pull some amps and may need a new circuit too.
     
  13. jaybean

    jaybean Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    20th Jun, 2015
    Posts:
    4,752
    Location:
    Here!
    My place is an old double brick wall with no cavity so chasing is the only option :(
     
  14. Shazz@

    Shazz@ Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    24th Jun, 2018
    Posts:
    1,310
    Location:
    NSW
    About $150/hour. Parts on top.
    But some quote on job rather than the hours spent. If you are concerned, why not get another quote to compare?
     
  15. Clean Cookie

    Clean Cookie Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    20th Mar, 2021
    Posts:
    385
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Here's what I would charge, if access is standard timber frame, with accessible ceiling space i.e. not raked tin with solar on-top... $85/hr labour charge usually. (More for industrial works or refrigeration)

    $200 quality ducted fan + switched on same switch $350.
    $200 quality ducted fan + new switchwire $420, add $100 for 20 min runon time delay/sensor with push button
    IXL sort of thing $200-700 (some fancy ones out there!) + 350 install


    Other options include wall/ceiling mounted strip heater, with timer/delay control/app control etc, in combination of a 200+mm fan and seperate down lights.
    They're a pain to install hence higher cost. 99% of the time they do not need a seperate circuit it's 550w at most with a 2 globe fitting, most light circuits should be 10+A breakers.

    $150 for any circuit upgrade to RCD and full test if required.

    Personally I do not like the IXL idea. The fans are noisy/terrible and the lights are generally not where you want them due to truss placement. My 200mm ducted in line fan works amazing and is near silent, I'm in Qld and still have the 50yo strip heater which I've turned on once just to see if it still worked. As for lights our bathroom is small, one over the shower and one over the vanity. Shower light/fan on the same switch and the fan runs 20 mins after switch is off to clear humidity. Vanity seperate switch.
     
  16. Ruby Tuesday

    Ruby Tuesday Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    8th Mar, 2021
    Posts:
    1,490
    Location:
    Danistan
    Mine charge $88 an hour and that is what he charged to repair exhaust fan and replace switch .
     
  17. jaybean

    jaybean Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    20th Jun, 2015
    Posts:
    4,752
    Location:
    Here!
    I want a heater + light, no exhaust needed. What brand would you recommend?
     
  18. Clean Cookie

    Clean Cookie Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    20th Mar, 2021
    Posts:
    385
    Location:
    Brisbane

    Due to the heat created they don't sell such a device, so two stand alone options. You can get a PAR recessed heat lamp fixture (picture those old school 150mm downlights with removable bulbs) or heat strip heater (connected to a power circuit due to load, usually 10A).
     
    jaybean likes this.
  19. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    18th Jun, 2015
    Posts:
    27,255
    Location:
    Sydney or NSW or Australia
    Just don't connect the fan, I have a separate fan exhausting to outside.
     
  20. Clean Cookie

    Clean Cookie Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    20th Mar, 2021
    Posts:
    385
    Location:
    Brisbane
    What a melted Plastic mess that'll be!