Urgent : Questions re painting the bathroom ceiling

Discussion in 'Renovation & Home Improvement' started by SteffS, 2nd Apr, 2018.

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  1. SteffS

    SteffS Well-Known Member

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    Looking to buy white paint for bathroom ceiling (exisiting white painted) due to mould being biult up in last few months/years.

    Went to bunnings and the guy recommended "Dulux White Ceiling +PLUS Kitchen and Bathroom Paint - 2L" but looking at the online seems this and Taubmans both got pretty bad reviews.

    Dulux White Ceiling +PLUS Kitchen and Bathroom Paint - 2L
    $57.90
    Dulux White Ceiling +PLUS Kitchen and Bathroom Paint - 2L
    Reviews : Dulux Wash & Wear +Plus Kitchen & Bathroom


    Taubmans White Easycoat Kitchen and Bathroom Paint - 2L White
    $51.20
    Taubmans White Easycoat Kitchen and Bathroom Paint - 2L White
    Reviews : Taubmans Easycoat


    Q1: Can someone suggest better option please?
    Q2: Also, does these paint (specifically Dulux) need any undercoat (and which one you recommend?)
     
  2. willair

    willair Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    What sort of material is in the ceiling ,plus most high cost per litre paints have a sealer in the one coat mix ..
     
  3. Joynz

    Joynz Well-Known Member

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    Firstly, how are you dealing with the mould? If not killed, it may come back.

    Bleach just hides it. To kill the spores properly, use the 'three buckets vinegar' method recommended by Choice.

    Secondly, follow the instructions on the paint tin exactly - about cleaning, sealer, undercoat etc.

    Thirdly, Dulux is a pretty good brand, so is Taubmans so those reviews are a bit surprising. I'd happily use Dulux.
     
    Last edited: 2nd Apr, 2018
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  4. Terry_w

    Terry_w Lawyer, Tax Adviser and Mortgage broker in Sydney Business Member

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    Why is this urgent?

    Urgent to me is something like when a pregnant woman's water breaks.
     
  5. hobartchic

    hobartchic Well-Known Member

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    Normal bleach won't kill mould but oxygen bleach may kill surface mould. Are you sure after all this time it's just on the surface. Wouldn't pulling down the plaster and checking the mould is not in the timber be a good idea? Don't just paint over mould without fixing all the mould and fixing it's source or you will have a greater problem in the future.
     
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  6. Joynz

    Joynz Well-Known Member

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    I'm interested in the source of the comment about oxygen bleach.
     
  7. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

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    Bleach is an oxidising agent, it's marketing spin. (Oxy bleach is Sodium Percarbonate)

    The marketing executive is an oxygen thief.

    @SteffS - I've recently used a couple of different products for killing mould from Bunnies. Both required dilution and spraying & scrubbing. Note that some are suited to ceilings, others for hard surfaces.

    Paint may also require an anti-mould additive as well.

    Mother-in-law is coming over tonight.
     
    Last edited: 2nd Apr, 2018
  8. Greyghost

    Greyghost Well-Known Member

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    You need a mould treatment first.
    Then ceiling white (with anti mould properties) 8: ceiling white.
    If it was white before there is no need for undercoat..
    No need to make it more complicated.
     
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  9. hobartchic

    hobartchic Well-Known Member

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    Check with an expert but I have successfully used oxygen bleach. It is a different product to chlorine bleach.

    Remove Mold Safely With Oxygen Bleach
     
  10. gerege

    gerege Well-Known Member

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    So to get rid of the mold the best way is to mix some chlorine and water in a bucket and wipe it off with a sponge
    Absolutely nothing wrong with dulux and Taubmans paint. Get some ceiling flat 2 letres will be enough.
    Easy..paint it
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 2nd Apr, 2018
  11. Bee-mumma

    Bee-mumma Well-Known Member

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    ummm.... ok well, here I go.
    Mold, has both spores and the underlying hyphae. The spores you can treat, that is fairly easy and will come off with a bit of soap and water initially and then you can treat the area with an agent that will kill the mold. Typically people use chlorine bleach, vinegar or borax. It's hard to kill mold because the waxy outer coat of the cells that make up the mold resist these chemicals. But removing the mold from the surface and treating the underlining issue is the best way to go.
    Ummm... that underlying issue is that usually mold is on a porous surface, and those little hyphae threads bed down into that like little roots of a tree. If the plaster was properly painted and treated when installed, the little roots won't have found a way through easily. But painted products do breakdown over time and allow those little hyphae threads to embed.
    So, if it isn't too bad, you may be able to paint over the top once the mold is treated with a bathroom specific paint with a mold additive to prevent the issue occurring again.
    If the issue is that the plaster has become porous, you may be better to remove all the plaster and put up new plaster. YEP. Then, apply the paint after sealing, undercoating and finally a top coat of paint specific for bathrooms.
    You can get a mold inhibitor that you add to paint so that you can use any good quality paint and turn it into 'bathroom/kitchen' paint. This might be an option if you are on a really strict budget and have some paint already.
    Personally, I think that the 1 coat wonder paints that 'do it all' might not have the coverage to just do one coat over raw plaster, or over problem areas. But that is just me.
     
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  12. Joynz

    Joynz Well-Known Member

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    I suggest you read the Choice article where they explain why bleach can hide the mould so it becomes invisible for a time - but won't necessarily kill the spores.
     
  13. Smuh5

    Smuh5 Active Member

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    Q1. Those are quite good brands and should do the job so not sure about any better option.

    Q2. You would need an undercoat depending on what colour is underneath. For example, an already white wall you could probably do without the undercoat. Try this undercoat: Zinsser Smart Prime 1L Water Based Undercoat
     
  14. Bee-mumma

    Bee-mumma Well-Known Member

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    Joynz. Spores aren't living. Technically they are dormant cells, that are not metabolizing or reproducing. They are the fruiting bodies of the mold/fungi. So, it is best to physically remove them. It is the hyphae/mycelium threads that are 'bleached'. Usually the mold build up is a combination of fungi and mold. Bleach works best on bacteria such as bacilli.
    I'm trained in microbiology. The bleach/chlorine mixture will kill the bacteria, it's fairly broad spectrum and can reduce the population of both gram positive and gram negative bacteria... heck... so can soap and water as it the soap lyses the cells (bursts the cell) by disturbing the cell membrane integrity. The one mistake people make over and over again, is using a high concentration of bleach or soap. The water is essential for allowing the chemical to do it's job. A 9% mix works well. The underlying structure of the mold is difficult to remove without physical removal, thus, I suggested removing the damaged plaster and redoing the roof. The mold inhibitors in the paint are very good at making sure mold won't find the plaster a good food source and ****** any growth.
    Clean, physically remove, treat with chemicals (soap, water & bleach) then use mold inhibitors in a paint which should solve the issue. If too much damage (more than a couple of spots) it might be better to replace the plaster.