Spray or re-tile bathroom?

Saw it in Bunnings last week, almost $100 a litre, hope it works well..!

 

Had the same issue, just finished fixing it. Its hard to say, some drummy tiles might come off easily, some might not resulting in holes in your panel behind (asbestos likely in an older house ).

My advice is when your done to ensure that your tap holes are sealed with silicone to stop water going down behind the sheeting, it then sits inside the lip of your shower tray and your new silicone seal will hold it there... (or if no shower tray then it will get caught and sit in the floor near your shower base inside the wall, either way no good).

Replace tap washers before doing the silicone as it is a pain after you have done the sealing.

 

Is Rust-oleum in Bunnings?. That video of the bathtub looks great.

I seen the white knight product in there but didn't notice rust oleum.

 

Some of there stores carry it, for some reason my local one doesn't but Masters does.

I've just done the 1st coat, a bit speckled on dusty floor tiles (from sanding) where I missed the corner with drop sheet, was only on there for ~10min, took a lot of elbow grease with a scraper, scourer and acetone to get it off so it should hopefully last along time in the bath tub.

 

i got this for my tub at masters $35 for ~1L
https://www.masters.com.au/product/900044414/rust-oleum-tub-tile-refinishing-kit-white-946ml
will be a while before i actually use it so cant post results

 

I plan on doing mine with the same product in about 3-4 weeks so I'll be sure to grab some before and after shots. I spoke to a knowledgable paint guy at Masters about it and he naturally cautioned against the fumes but said it gives a surprisingly good finish when brushed on. Something to do with consistency and heat and time which I kind of zoned out to but he sounded convinced.

 

ok so applying mine now.



*only mix half you can get 2 coats in with that then do another 2 coats a day later when has dried really good (or put in freezer apparently as it really slows down the drying rate)
i wasnt sure how much it would cover so done the whole lot at once

*stir it before every coat.

i found this forum while i was waiting for my first coat to dry
http://www.swingpaints.com/message/442
quite helpful.

i have an issue with fisheyes (silicone contamination) im thinking it was from some wd40 that i used in the air sander when prepping the bath.

i followed the instructions the best i could with products i could find locally.
i didnt see anywhere on the instructions to wash with a wax/grease remover which would've sorted out my fish eye problem.

prep work was hard on a cast iron porcelain baked on finish. but managed to scuff most of it up
-i have 2 coats done and the top has dried but the sides and bottom were still wet.
im thinking the sides and bottom hadn't fully dried when i applied my second coat. i touched the bit i had done last and it was dry so assumed the rest would be. so let it all fully dry before reapplying

-i applied mine with a roller not brush and it does have a bit of orange peel.
im thinking of sanding back in the morning and applying the last 2 coats with a brush if the stuff hasnt gone hard

- 2 coats is not enough i can still see through some of it (even though the photo looks good). it was a light baby blue colour

- fumes are bad. i have a proper respirator and didnt notice it but as soon as i had finished i took it off and wow, it hit me! whole house is so fumey i have a cracking headache

note: my drop sheet is just one of those black garbage bags cut in half

good luck

 

ok so wet rubbed it with 400 and done 1 coat with a brush.
the paint was getting pretty thick. so thats all could do. but the 3rd coat was what it needed.

fingers crossed it doesn't start peeling off.