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Skirting boards

Discussion in 'Renovation & Home Improvement' started by bythebay, 15th Apr, 2016.

  1. bythebay

    bythebay Well-Known Member

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    Hi PCers


    Looking to install skirting boards in a 2br IP full-brick apartment (about 90sqm of internal space) in Sydney lower north shore.

    Narrowed down to these 2 products from Bunnings (or equivalent) if I have to supply myself and just pay for labour to install:
    Skirting Board - primed MDF - 92mm (W) x 18mm (D) x 5400mm (L) $12.42 per length
    OR
    Skirting Board - Primed Pine - 92mm (W) x 18mm (D) x 5400mm (L) $21.61 per length

    Obviously timber is superior (and justifiably exxier). Bunnings guy said MDF should be fine if area is not exposed to moisture. If area is exposed to moisture, I really should consider timber.

    I assume by moisture he means actual physical moisture from direct water contact. I don't plan to install them INSIDE bathroom, guest w/c, kitchen or laundry. They will be installed in the lounge, dining, 2 bedrooms and the corridor. I'm leaning towards the MDF option from cost perspective. Has anyone used MDF skirting boards? Do they last ok? Have you had issues?

    Other units in the back of the complex looks onto a river. On the opposite side of the road, the land slopes down to a bay but there are lots of units there (ie: between the bay and my complex). It's not next to a beach or anything so I assume "moisture" in that sense (air?) should not be an issue ...?

    Does anyone know approximately how many metres of skirting boards I need for this job? I won't hold you to it, I just want to get a rough idea for budgeting purposes.

    What trades can install skirting boards?
    1. flooring specialist (I'm having a flooring guy come in to replace carpet with laminate flooring)
    2. carpenter
    3. handyman
    4. any of the above?

    I assume handyman would be best value for money? or if flooring guy can do it same time as installing laminate flooring?

    How many hours would it take? I assume half a day (4hours) max?

    If anyone is willing to share .... what have you paid for labour and materials to get skirting boards done?

    Thank you all in advance. Happy to poste before & after photos once it's all done =)
     
    Last edited: 15th Apr, 2016
  2. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

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    Best to use a chippy a handyman comes a close second if they've got carpentry skills. Flooring contractor may be capable as well but they will advise you of the material to use.

    Measure the perimeter of each room. Allow full lengths of material for all walls - you don't want to have joints unless the walls length exceeds the lengths of the material. Timber comes in multiples of 300mm so round up each length to the next 0.3m

    Are the floors level - Scribing the skirting to the floor takes time. Different profiles also take more time.
     
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  3. col col

    col col Member

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    As an ex chippy i would use timber every time .Often problems with mdf although you can get a nice finish whilst painting it.
     
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  4. WattleIdo

    WattleIdo renovating Premium Member

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    Have seen MDF used here in Parkes NSW (inland) and it looked great. An older couple mind you so probably not very destructive.
    I have timber skirting boards but they're not all flush to the wall and many stop a few cms short of where they should meet. Not sure what to do either. Will try to find a carpenter.
     
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  5. bythebay

    bythebay Well-Known Member

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    Thanks everyone
    Met with the floor guy today
    Angle beading is free
    Decided to just go with this option for now rather than paying extra for skirting boards
    Just want to put it back on market for lease for the time being so shouldn't make too much different to weekly rental amount

    Thanks everyone for responses

    Scott you sound like an expert!
     
  6. Greyghost

    Greyghost Well-Known Member

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    Spend the extra and don't get mfd.. You will regret it.
     
  7. Tim86

    Tim86 Well-Known Member

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    What is wrong with mdf?

    Ive never had a problem with it once painted.
     
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  8. willair

    willair Well-Known Member Premium Member

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  9. Greyghost

    Greyghost Well-Known Member

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    Because it's soft and if it gets wet it swells.
     
  10. BKRinvesting

    BKRinvesting Well-Known Member

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    Pick yourself up a Mitre saw and install yourself.
    Super easy.
    Measure twice, cut, paint and glue (I used a nail gun as well for extra awesomeness)
    I've never had an issue with MDF either.
     
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  11. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

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    MDF needs to be predrilled but other than that it's fine for skirtings. Bit of builder's bog and a lick of paint & @bob shovel's your uncle.

    I'd prefer mdf to finger jointed pine.
     
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  12. Tim86

    Tim86 Well-Known Member

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    If its got a coat of paint on it then it takes a heck of a lot of water sitting for a long time for it to swell.

    Ive got mdf skirting and never really had a problem. But I do run primer on both sides and gloss white on the front, bottom and 1cm up the back.

    Only trouble Ive ever had is when it only had one thin coat of primer on it and it was sitting in the shed for months, the shed leaked water and sat for ages in amongst the boards. Some swelling for a cm or so every meter or so. But I just sanded the swollen edges down, painted it up and it was all good to install and its been fine ever since.
     
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  13. dan_89

    dan_89 Well-Known Member

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    I don't see why there is a problem with MDF? I've used them many times without any issues. As long as you paint them properly and the place doesn't flood then you'll be fine!

    And pretty sure if your place floods there will be bigger issues than your skirting boards to worry about..
     
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  14. bob shovel

    bob shovel Well-Known Member

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    Or your Aunty ;)

    I have no hatred towards mdf either... Pre drill? Just bash away with nails :)
     
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  15. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

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    @bob shovel - I'm thinking cement render - none of this flexible acryllic stuff for me. Whack a nail into old style cement render and you'll either bend your nail or take off a chunk of plaster. Screw and glue all the way.
     
  16. Tim86

    Tim86 Well-Known Member

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    Finishing nail gun works a treat. And liquid nail to really stick the bastard in place :)
     
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  17. bob shovel

    bob shovel Well-Known Member

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    Ah ok I didn't read the thread. Cement render inside yuck, burn the place down.

    I'd just reach for the liquid balls then, place a few bricks up against it and @bob shovel 's your Aunty
     
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  18. Greyghost

    Greyghost Well-Known Member

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    I did one of my IP's in mdf.
    Wouldn't do it again.
    Primed, painted and siliconed the toilet mdf skirts. Still signs of slight swelling 4 years later.

    For an IP no worries, but if doing my own place again in the future I wouldn't use it.
     
  19. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

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    Not the best for wet areas but then again nor is any timber which isn't approved for exposed situations eg: tallowwood or cedar but both $$ for an IP job.
     
  20. Tim86

    Tim86 Well-Known Member

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    No way would I put it in a toilet. Not with the bad aim some blokes have.