Select right drill for hardwood?

I buy a lot roller blinds and started install them. Unfortunately, I could not screw or pre-drill into the window frame. It seems that the frames are hardwood and I used wrong drill. there were hoods which were screwed into the window frames by someone else.

I will buy different drill from Bunnings and try again tomorrow. What drill should I ask Bunnings staff?

 

You need a cordless impact driver.
Almost double the torque than a drill driver , looks identical but has a 3/8 female socket like that for tec screws and driving screws straight in..
Go brushless and they give you more torque again.
It does not have a chuck and attachments just slot straight in..
You can go from Ozito , and Ryobi and right up to Milwaukee .
If more torque is required ,go for the bigger batteries on cordless , although they increase in the overall weight of the tool.
Its just a trade off between weight and power.
Also the drill bits maybe the problem HSS bits are designed to drill into metal , crap at going in hardwood like Jarrah..

 

I have a AEG brushless driver 18v, 6A and 81N (high torque) but I used cheap drill. I took me too much time to drill a hold and

Note I have to hang 22 roller blinds + 4 curtains . it will take too much time for me to hang them if I do not have right tools.

 

An 18v drill should be fine Buy some decent quality drill bits and you should be ok.

 

Even a cheap drill should be fine. No need to use an impact driver.

If you are using a bit for timber (not a masonry bit) and drilling pilot holes for the screws, then 18 volt is more than enough power.

Make sure you haven’t accidentally switched it to hammer drill setting.

What diameter bit were you using?

Are you removing the old hoods you mentioned too?

 

Probably a good idea to make sure its not on the hammer setting used for masonry.

Even the crappiest small drill should be able to drill small holes into wood.
For certain types of applications when they just drive straight into the wood with the screw an impact driver can be more suited ,they work in a slightly different way ,more torque is used as it is required to drive the screw in and you dont get the bit jumping of the screw head and rounding it off
For around the home a drill driver with hammer function is a lot more versatile but lacks the torque compared to a impact driver by about 20- 30%..
Some like ryobi and the cheaper ozito do a combo pack , although the drill does not have the hammer function .
Many drills are around 50-80 NM of torque, but a impact driver is around 150NM and up, with the right attachments you can even use then for removing wheel nuts, although they may need an additional crack with a bar first.

 

Likely causes:

• Drill in reverse (doh!)
• Incorrect drill bit (masonry)
• Not pushing hard enough (do a workout)

 

I have encountered the same problem too, so now I have two drills. One, a lightweight cordless drill and a second, higher powered rotary hammer drill.

My hammer drill is this Ozito unit, and it will plough through anything , it will snap the drill bits before it struggles. Also handy as a small jack hammer for taking up tiles etc Ozito 1600W Rotary Hammer Drill Kit

 

You can't always drill the hole in one go. Drill 5mm remove drill bit and make sure grooves in bit are clear, drill another 5mm repeat process

 

What Scott no mates said..it's not concrete, should not be hard with a standard drill bit; you are doing it wrong.

 

I would bet your have the wrong Drill Bit for the job. Get a good timber drill bit.

The drill when fully charged set on a decent speed it should do it easily.

 

Impact drivers have their place but you need to be careful - many screws particularly those that come in standard mounting kits are not strong enough and they snap off.

Also impact driving (without a pilot hole) can be a bit rough on the timber. I have both a drill/driver and when I have a lot of things to mount - I use one for pilot holes (hex drill bit) and the other for screwing...

 

Or your drill bit could just be blunt. Need to sharpen it or buy a new one.

For jobs like these, its easier to have 2 drills setup to save changing bits all the time.

One to drill the pilot hole and one to drive the screw. I think I have about 6 different drills!

 

I think that’s why they often package a drill and impact driver in a set of two. One to drill holes and one to drive screws!

Love my Bosch blue 18v.

 

Yes - I have Makita and have often had 3-4 drills set up. One for the pilot, next to enlarge the hole, then a countersink, then a driver.

 

Spoiler: American Screwdriver?

Spoiler: My other favoured driver

Spoiler: You won't catch me with one of these drivers

 

Drill in reverse ?? It should turn clockwise.
No torque settings (turn dial to an image of a straight drill bit)
If two speeds consider higher speed but dont run drill at full speed. Allow drill to bite then slowly increase speed. Not a race.
Drill a small pilot hall then a larger hole and increment max 6mm each time in hardwood. 4mm in steel
Dont drill depth you dont need. If the screw is 18mm long drill no more than 20mm.

I used to work at Black & Decker / DeWalt

 

I bough heavy duty drill from Bunnings. It works well. Old house with hardwoods everywhere.