Raise and replace old shed roof

We have an old asbestos 'Super 6' roof being removed from our shed this week. The walls of the shed are decorative concrete blocks. The timber roof frame is rotten in parts and will need replacing.

I want to raise the height of the roof 300-350mm using a timber strip to fill the gap between the existing blocks and new roof. I am going to insulate the roof and use colourbond for the roof sheets (there is about a 5 degree fall).

I have very little carpentry experience, no roofing experience and no carpenters so far have been keen to do the job on an hourly rate.

Any advice/resources on how to DIY the roof would be appreciated, getting my head around how to raise it is my biggest issue at the moment.

 

I can't match them, I also dont want to be cutting concrete block on an angle for my first attempt at bricklaying!

 

Head on over to the Renovate Forum for good advice on this sort of stuff.

 

Glad you put a pic, not the size/sort of shed I was thinking, thought maybe you wanted to raise a 6x6 or sim to fit the centre console in (fishing boat).

From the pic, based on what you want, what I'd do;
1st, get a couple of quotes from patio/shed installers, maybe a handyman that specialises, they can make up/install some trusses out of shed framing material (steel) to suit, finish it off with colorbond.

After listening/watching them measure up you may have a better idea how to attack it.
Measure up, take lots of pics, go to a place like Stratco and tell/show them what you want to do, someone there should be able help work out what & how much material you need, give you a price etc.

Work out if its worth doing yourself or paying someone else...

Re installation, in-case not aware, you could also use something like this Insulspan 50mm Colorbond Colours Corrugated Roofing - Linear Metre or cool-room sheets like they use for caravan hard annexes etc.

 

A simple way would be too make the roof on the angle up the back up at the front 400mm and just use glass in the front section and all the storm water goes out the back fence section..

 

Had a carpenter out who was supposed to just assess the job and come back for a day on $55 per hour. His quote was $5,450. Two others didn't bother to get back to me.

We are on rhe coast so I'm concerned steel might rust. Everything that can rust here does (including our toilet roll holders). The asbestos removal bloke old me I'd have to cut the roof sheets with tin snips instead of an angle grinder to prevent the roof sheets rusting?

 

I had considered glass but I think it will blow the costs out, will require more cleaning (the windows are constantly covered in salt) and we've just been hit with almost $4K to remove a very large Norfolk Pine in a very small retaining wall so costs are an issue for us at the moment.

 

Frame it up with galv roofing purlins. Paint exposed annd cut edges with cold gal.

How is angle frinder cutting any different from hand cutting - just remove all the swathe and treat the cut ends as per the recommendations in the tech specs. Use a product which is warranted for installation near the water.

 

I think if you cost class vs complete frame and clad then glass per sqm's is the lower cost just depends on where you buy the framed glass panels ,the link for the QLD based company is also based down your way,this company always has glass panels that are new but classed as seconds because they are premade and never picked up,just match the area with what ever you can buy at 30%off the factory door cash price just give them a ring and ask the question..imho..
http://www.woodworkers.com.au/contact-us/35-sydneywoodworkers-brookvale

 

IMO how it should be done regardless of location, bit easier these days with power/battery snips, whilst quicker (les$ labour/cost time) angle grinders, power saws, not only causes a rough cut but swarf sticks to the sheets and causes freckle rust.

If worried about steel framing rusting what were you planning to use for roofing?

I'm not a fan of hourly rate, if things are quite, not another job after this one yet, I might slow down a bit compared to the pace of a fixed price/quote.
If there's a fair bit of work going on in your area tradies aren't going to be cheap, try handymen, get contact details/referrals from local hardware/trade suppliers. Remembering unlike being an employee, its not just what they cost per hour, they also have tool/running costs etc.

 

Is this your idea? http://www.roofpurlins.co.uk/images/product/roof-purlins.jpg

Securing the rafter to the block work would just be via dynabolts? (I'm not sure if the blocks are solid, hollow cavity blocks or have been core filled).

No idea how an angle grinder with aluminium disc is different but I just took it on face value at the time from the bloke with more experience.

 

I wasn't planning on a complete frame and clad, just an extension on top of the existing blocks (If I'm understanding your correctly?).

I'll see what options they have, I don't mind paying slightly more if the end product is better, it's a pretty unique looking shed.

 

It's a two-man, one day job so on my rough guesstimate I'll be under $1,000 for materials and at $55 an hour about $550 for the day. Massive difference in price compared to the $5,450 quote.

The biggest problem we have with trades is that if the surfs good they don't show up. I'm also keen to be involved so I can DIY roofing in the future if the need arises.

 

He did mention the power/battery snips but said because I only have four cuts (if I order to size) and it's likely a one-off better saving the cost and doing it manually.

I was going to use colourbond for roofing because I don't have much else choice however I'm avoiding metal wherever I can, we reno'ed the place for tennants two years ago and even the toilet roll holders are rusting.

 

That's what i'm trying to say just angle up from the back,plus it's a pity all the plumbing and services is in-between those 2 door you could also span those 2 doors and open that area in glass panels..

 

I need to re-sheet the inside of the shed so I'll move the plumbing and electrical inside at the same time.

It's actually two rooms and that's why there are two doors. Years ago the house was 5 holiday flats with a shared backyard, the shed was one of those flats.

Part of the reason I want to raise the entire thing is that the back is under legal ceiling height so if I ever wanted to convert to a granny flat in the future I would have to raise the back anyway so might as well do it now.

 

The whole house is pretty quirky, shortly after buying we found a large storage area behind a timber wall panel. It also has a front patio right out to the council strip, the patio is suspended and there is a bowling alley shape room underneath (but the head height is only about 1.7m)

I like the sandwich panels, I just did some quick calcs - $1,900. I'll have to compare it to traditional insulation and colourbond. The upside is it's far less work and I won't have to line the ceiling.

Anyone know how you run electrical on the sandwich panels? Just conduit or can the cables be hidden?