PPOR Project

It's one of those expandable houses....

 

Far out. That's huge.
That's one way to quadruple the value of your house - quadruple the size!

 

Yeah its going to be massive. Its really cool seeing all those beams in. Gives a real proportion to the rooms. Can get a feel for where the pool table and bar is going to go. Very exciting. And surprisingly Im not minding the work too much. Very different when u are working on your own place rather than an investment property.

 

Your extension is close to double the size of my entire house, if not my block.

 

Yeah its a bit over the top lol. But its really not too costly to make it bigger when you DIY.

To buy and put in all those beams for example only cost $2800.

 

Is that cold gal?? Are some of those beams welded? Do you weld up there?

I'm curious to see the next step. Timber joists on top? but why aren't the beams set up at the same height? As the main big beam 250ub?

Edit.. Just spotted the welding mask.I'm used to bolted connections. No detail design just weld as needed

 

Tim
awesome

 

My brother in law is a welder and has been working alongside me. For those beams he welded and I cut and positioned and laser levelled them etc. Although I am getting the hang of welding now. But I dont trust my welds to hold 1400kg of steel above my head lol. So let my bro in law do it.

Those welds are ridiculously strong. A lot stronger than bolts would be holding it. Its all engineered though and Im often ringing up the engineer to consult.

The middle big beam is a 305mmUB40mm the others are 230mm pfcs and one 125pfc. The 230pfcs sit in the web of the 305ub which means the top is 65mm bellow the top of the 305ub. But then 125mm by 50mm timber joists will sit directly on top of all the 230pfcs going the opposite way to those pfcs. They will get triple gripped and metal screwed into the pfcs. So then all the tops of the joists will be above all the steel by 55mm, which is perfect for then laying your floorboards on.

I might do all the framing downstairs first though. Im undecided on what I want to do next.

Its going to look amazing with downstairs framed up. I already have all the doors and windows ready to go in when I frame up. Nice cedar ones that I got for 2000 when a house got demolished. 4 double casements, 2 lots of 4 casements, 4 hopper windows and a massive double hopper, a french door and a 4 door french door all for the 2000 in really good condition. One single hopper window by itself is usually 450.

Hmmmm now that I think about it Ill probably frame up downstairs first. Good times

 

Nice one! Those doors are a bargain!

Welding (done correctly) I'd stronger than the steel you're welding in most cases. Just used to seeing bolted on site.

Ah joists make sense now! What length are they? Running the whole way through? I'd put them up first before frames downstairs get in the way. Get them up in place and the floor boards then frame ds?? Suggestion for you

 

Length of the joist varies. As long as they can meet over a bearer they are fine.

The frames downstairs shouldnt get in the way. They are just the outside walls and where the stairway is. The rest is open. Plus I have to have the stairway wall frames before the joists because the joists sit on it. The framing has the added advantage of pushing all my steel posts perfectly straight before I put joists on top. But Ill see how it goes.

 

Go @Tim86! Can't wait to see the finished product and the Bali hut- bring it on

 

hahaha
my reaction.

Rereading it the 3rd time - bigger metal thing in the middle. Smaller metal thingi perpendicular to the bigger metal thingy. Smaller metal thingi has less width. there is gap of 6.5cm between smaller metal thingi and bigger metal thingi (as in gap on top not in between). This gap is perfect to put timber joist (?) on top....

Edit - googled timber joist


Then put timber floor on top of joist...

 

Fank you!
Looks like some chipboard in there to me.

 

Ehh... why???

Blame google....

 

For the simplified explanation for my simple brain

 

Lol wait for the next round of pics. All will become clear soonish.

I think Ill do the joists and floor on top asap. I really need the floor below covered. That black plastic didnt do very well in the rain. Water gets in there and just makes the floor go mouldy.

Anyone have any tips on how builders normally keep the timber floor protected from the elements?

My plan is to do a coat of sealer on it and then paint the steel beams so they dont drip rusty water on the floorboards. Put tarps over the floor to protect it but take them all off to dry after it rains. And get the above floor done as soon as I can so its all protected.

Its a massive pain keeping everything protected while its open to the elements.

 

Will this structure have a roof?? Skip floor till you have frames and a roof up

That's a LVL- laminated veneer lumber. Glued together to make a timber beam, good strength. Although the joists are likely just normal looking lengths of timber (MGP10 structural pine )

Yep! The 125mm time will sit above the 65mm gap allowing the floor to go over the "bigger metal thingi" the joists run the same direction as the "bigger metal thingi". Then floor perpendicular

 

See Bob's got the right idea

I do really need to get the roof on ASAP. But the roof is 9.3m off of the ground so I really need the second story floor and also the wrap around deck upstairs to get safe access.

Hmmmm thinking thinking thinking...

 

Is lumber the American term or do we call it that here too?