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Load bearing wall?

Discussion in 'Renovation & Home Improvement' started by paulF, 25th Jul, 2016.

  1. paulF

    paulF Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys,
    Is it possible to identify load bearing walls via a simple floor plan like the one attached?

    After removing the small cabinetry in the kitchen last week (green highlighted bit) and seeing how much of a massive difference opening up that space made, i'm keen on removing the wall in highlighted in red.

    Got a few builders in the past to have a look and both kept on trying to send me to an architect to get the house resketched or something which seemed a bit dodge and both weren't keen on getting up to the attic to have a closer look but both suggested that it does look like a load bearing wall...

    Has anyone had any experience removing one before please and what is the average cost of doing so?

    Cheers
     

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  2. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

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    It really does require an engineer to look at your structure then determine whether it's structural or not, calculation of load paths, what needs to be stiffened or structural member to be installed.

    The builder may not necessarily have the appropriate qualifications, experience or insurances for the advice or design work.
     
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  3. Random Username

    Random Username Well-Known Member

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    Is it a trussed roof or stick built?
     
  4. Coota9

    Coota9 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Get an engineer to look at it as it will save you time/money in the long run,son has just had one through to look at removing a wall in his PPOR which was about $1,000 to all up.
     
  5. lewy89

    lewy89 Well-Known Member

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    I removed a load bearing wall to open up the kitchen in my IP only last year. I had to get an engineer in to draw up the design (about $600) then had a few builders come and give me a quote as I decided It was to big of a job for myself.

    By taking the wall out it made a 6M opening which needed bearing so we had to get a 6M beam in. All in all it ended up costing about $5000 but very easily made the house look at least triple that better.
     
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  6. paulF

    paulF Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the prompt responses guys,
    Seems like an engineer is the way to go by the looks of things.
    @Random Username , it's a trussed roof as per photos
     

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  7. Random Username

    Random Username Well-Known Member

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    That is stick built not trussed.
    There are props supporting it from internal walls, making them load bearing.
    Trussed roofs generally span internal walls and are supported by the external walls.
     
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  8. Stoffo

    Stoffo Well-Known Member

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    That is a framed roof, not trussed :rolleyes:
    It would be a fairly simple straight forward job
    (For someone with a little experience :confused: )
    If there are no props (vertical posts) holding up the roof/ridge/mid beams, then your wall isn't load bearing ;)
    If they do, it could have a beam put in the roof cavity to support these, isnt too hard to work out, but it would also require appropriate stud wall support at each end and review of bearers and joists underneath.
    The only other concern then is if it is a bracing wall (wind load) which is possible, but you could ply brace the stud wall between lounge and dinning (making it a bit thicker) to overcome this :D.
    For it to be legal it would need engineering cert, particularly if being sold :oops:
    Edit:Random just beat me.......
     
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  9. mcarthur

    mcarthur Well-Known Member

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    Same here. Engineering a little higher, but the found a builder to do it for $3500. Certification and building approval was another $1000 or so.
    Do look around though - had 4 other quotes from builders ranging from $12,000 down to $7,800! Lots of builders don't want a) the work, b) that sort of work. Note that in this case there was also extra incentive of another $30-50k of other stuff to do...
     
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  10. paulF

    paulF Well-Known Member

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    Thanks very much for that @Stoffo and @Random Username and please excuse my ignorance!

    Already emailed a local engineer to come and have a look but i'm positive it's a load bearing wall now as i recall there are vertical posts (props ;)) holding up some beams.
     
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  11. mcarthur

    mcarthur Well-Known Member

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    BTW, the phrase I've heard used for that type of roof is "cut roof", as distinct to a truss roof.
     
  12. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

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    That's a framed roof - no trusses to be seen. Looks like king posts supporting the ridge. Struts from the king posts to the underpurlins.
     
  13. paulF

    paulF Well-Known Member

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    Thx for that Scott,
    Here's another image (apologies for the low quality as i'm copying them from an old building report...)
    I think i can see the King posts that you mention. Will get some clear photos tonight after i'm home in case it might help someone in the future...
     

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  14. paulF

    paulF Well-Known Member

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    Here's a clearer photo guys. I think it's clearly showing both walls are load bearing.
    Seems like builders are not fond of such jobs as not many are showing any interest! Most of them are more keen on a full house Reno which is understandable I guess...
    Thx again everyone
     

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  15. Agent99

    Agent99 Well-Known Member

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    Its called a pitched roof and is very simple to slide in an LVL. You will need engineer calcs to size up the beam possibly 300x65 or timber companies usually have their own guy who can do this. Beam will sit slightly above ceiling joists and should only take a couple of hours to do.
     
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  16. Otie

    Otie Well-Known Member

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    We just had a similar one done- its very hard to gauge the true cost. We had 2 quotes- one for $4800, the other for $660. Checked that the builder had insurance and went with the $660 one.
    Still a complete rip off. He was there 2.5 hours, put in a LVL beam I think it was called, and charged 660 for the timber which I think would cost well under $100 at Bunnings.
    After I saw what he did, I realised we easily could have done it ourselves (walls had already been completely stripped back to framework. Ours was only a 1200mm opening in the end.
    He could have opened it up to the 3m I originally wanted but wanted $1600 to do that as he would need props, an extra beam and a second guy. Still a rip when he's materials and his mates few hours wage would be under $500 inc the prop hire... In the end I'm glad that we paid for it even though we got ripped off as I would not have had the piece of mind that the roof wasn't going to cave in.
    I made a compromise on the opening size only because I couldn't warrant an extra $1000 for a rental property- If it was my PPOR I would have done it though.
     
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  17. paulF

    paulF Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for that @Agent99 ,very encouraging!

    @Otie , thanks very much for the details. Not sure on how simple the job might be but as you mentioned, i think the money spent on getting an insured builder is worth the peace of mind.

    I'll keep on looking around for companies who do this sort of job and in case the numbers add up, i might just go and do a full reno as Kitchen and bathroom can do with one!
     
  18. Random Username

    Random Username Well-Known Member

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  19. willair

    willair Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    That's a solid internal roof,looks like all hardwood..
    Those 4 large beams that span the building ,simple way would be use a RSJ and tie into those and the load would be balance,the only item to be very carefull with something like this is as i cant see if the roof is the old super "66" ,or tiles but the dust levels would be dangerous in the confined space..imho..
     
  20. paulF

    paulF Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the link @Random Username. That's a fair bit of work and even though i'm pretty handy, i wouldn't tackle a project like this myself to be honest!
    @willair , The roof is using concrete tiles, i got someone to look at it last summer to repaint/rebed/repoint and he said it was in very good condition and not many tiles needed replacing if any. I was thinking of cleaning the attic as it's pretty dirty and old tenants had rat/mice infestation that they didn't seem to care much about...