Improving Walls in bedroom

Discussion in 'Renovation & Home Improvement' started by iwantahouse, 19th Jan, 2020.

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  1. iwantahouse

    iwantahouse Well-Known Member

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    Hi guys,

    I just finished peeling off all the wallpaper and gum from the walls in this bedroom.
    House is an old 1950's built, with concrete brick on the outside and mud brick in the inside.

    Can any of you tell me what is the orange thing that is peeling off the wall? it is the undercoat? It was under the gum and some of it came off but some stayed.In the other side of the room you can see that there is less of that orange paint and more of the white one which is the same layer but in different colour. What were they trying to do when they put the wallpaper? IMG_20200119_160412.jpg

    IMG_20200119_162924.jpg

    In one of the pictures you can see the brick, what kind of plaster or render is this? Can I use a normal filler to cover it? I have read that old plasters are made of a different materials and the new ones won't stick?

    IMG_20200119_160436.jpg

    What is the best course of action for me to fix this before I paint?
     
  2. wylie

    wylie Moderator Staff Member

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    It looks to me like the orange is paint, that they've painted one wall and wallpapered the other one, hence the cutting in with orange at the corner?

    And later someone has wallpapered over the orange paint as well? Was it wallpapered over?

    I'd get it smooth with light sandpaper so the next layer of paint will stick. It's hard to tell, but it there are hard edges between layers, you may need some fill (looks like you've done some fill already), so I'd feather it through the edges, get it as smooth as you can, light sand and then maybe a seal coat or a combination sealer and undercoat.

    That's what I'd do anyway.

    Edit: Which layer us under which layer?
     
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  3. iwantahouse

    iwantahouse Well-Known Member

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    Well the whole room had wallpaper.

    There are hard edges between the layers, in some parts the orange layer is in good condition but in others isn't, there is also some bubbles under the orange layer in some parts.

    I haven't done any filling yet, I just want to be sure any filling will work as I read that old houses require a different type of filling so it can stick?
     
  4. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

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    What style of house/age?

    Rising damp?
     
  5. willair

    willair Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    If this is a 1950's cottage style property then that may be a sealer they used before they set the wall-paper ..

    Just be very careful with prep work,most properties in that 1950's build range would have ''Asbestos'' somewhere or there is none,at least that's a solid wall no crack's and the angles are still plum for a building like that..

    Make sure you use all the safety gear from masks ect..imho..
     
  6. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

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    If it's super thin, an absolute **** to get off the wall, paint won't stick to it. I had something similar recently, paint went over it but even oil based primer wouldn't penetrate. Needs lots of mechanical sanding.
     
  7. iwantahouse

    iwantahouse Well-Known Member

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    Thank you, I hadn't thought of that, I guess I will need to check the ceiling for asbestos as I was planning on replacing the cornices. It is possible to have asbestos in the ceiling even if I have the vents for the evaporative cooler?

    Well, it is not that thin but I'm not sure whether to prime and sand or get rid of it all which would add a lot more work.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 19th Jan, 2020
  8. willair

    willair Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    If the same 50 plus year old ceiling and knowing the way the plaster is set from that building time frame then i would say yes ,cornices i would not take the risk ..
    Asbestos is something to take very serious full safety gear and buy the best mask you can find..good luck..imho..
     
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  9. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

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    It's more likely to be fibrous plaster with horsehair.

    As for the paint, possibly treat the orange stuff with Penetrol.
     
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  10. iwantahouse

    iwantahouse Well-Known Member

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    Thank you guys,

    Any recommendations for a plaster and undercoat primer? I'm going crazy looking at all the stock at Bunnings and so many terms I'm not sure about. I don't want to spend money in unnecessary things.
     
  11. Propertunity

    Propertunity Well-Known Member

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  12. iwantahouse

    iwantahouse Well-Known Member

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  13. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

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    Go to a specialist paint wholesaler not Bunnies. More likely to be recommended something like Penetrol or a solvent based primer (which you can apply acrylic).

    The issue is that the primer must penetrate that substrate and seal it as well otherwise the new paint will peel.

    If you can take a sample to the paint shop, it will help to diagnose it.
     
  14. Joynz

    Joynz Well-Known Member

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    The taubmans 3 in 1 product posted above isn’t suitable for bare plaster (though it is fine for plasterboard).

    You need to get something specifically for bare plaster - if that’s what you are painting. E.g. Dulux PRECISION Sealer Binderproduct details | Dulux

    Just one example - there are others of course - make sure the tin specifically mentions the substrate you will be using it on.
     
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  15. Propertunity

    Propertunity Well-Known Member

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    You're making it sound like they are 2 different things?:confused: LOL (yes I was thinking plasterboard)
     
  16. Paul@PAS

    Paul@PAS Tax, Accounting + SMSF + All things Property Tax Business Plus Member

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    Did you ask the Bunnings paint desk staff ?. They are all trained in technical paint issues by all the paint companies. Staff will often recommend a specifc product for a specific issue. If its a 20 year old wait for what appears a well worn uniform and someone who is better trained. 20yo will prob ask them anyway. The other key issue is surface prep before the initial seal coat.
     
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  17. iwantahouse

    iwantahouse Well-Known Member

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    I haven't asked yet, I was yesterday at Bunnings looking for different things and the lady at the paint shop was a 20 year old lady :D

    I was thinking of going to Dulux or Wattyl trade centre to ask.
     
  18. iwantahouse

    iwantahouse Well-Known Member

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    Thanks @Scott No Mates I just went to a Dulux Trade Centre, the guy who attended me was very nice and he recomended Dulux Precision sealer as @Joynz said before.

    He gave us two options:

    Level the wall using plaster or just do primer but sanding first the edges of the paint on the wall as some of you recommended.

    Thank you guys for your help.
     
  19. iwantahouse

    iwantahouse Well-Known Member

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    Well here is the room now, I haven't finished yet but I'm getting there.

    Cornices have been replaced and walls had to be skim coated, it was very bad, job is not perfect but looks heaps better than before. The sealer binder recommendd by Joynz was fantastic.

    [​IMG]

    Now before painting the walls and ceiling I have decided to prep windows, skirting boards and door frames. Unfortunately last owners decided to use a water based paint on these things which look and feel awful. Last night I started sanding the windows and found out that the "original" paint was still there, very smooth but yellowed I guess due to being an old enamel paint.

    I have questions:

    While I was sanding the water paint away, I found that the timber surface has some texture (like timber fibres) under the old oil paint. Is this the way timber should look or do I need to sand the timber until it is completely flat?

    Can I paint with enamel over that enamel paint? or do I have to sand the old enamel paint too?

    Do windows, skirting boards and door frames use the same white colour? what are your recommendations? Are these different from the white ceiling colour or need to be the same?

    Here is a closer pic of one of the windows:

    [​IMG]
     
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  20. Joynz

    Joynz Well-Known Member

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    It’s looking great so far.

    Has the water based paint been peeling off really easily - in small strips?