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First build - physical design feedback please

Discussion in 'Development' started by SaberX, 6th Jul, 2015.

  1. SaberX

    SaberX Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    29th Jun, 2015
    Posts:
    197
    Location:
    WA
    Hi guys,

    So just wanted some collective wisdom here of those who have encountered or dealt with the following design/building issues before I proceed. I am currently very close to signing with a builder choice for my first build - an intended rental.

    1) Pushing your sliding wardrobes out under the eaves for minor bedrooms to allow for more open usable space. Worry is someone once mentioned gutters/eaves being in line with the wardrobe building was a no-no for water damage, seepage and a host of problems? Is this a high risk or a very low risk, probability? Would you advise against it? As it makes good space design sense.... any one speak from experience?

    2) Would not having a solid opposing wall available opposite to where you'd likely centre your master bedroom's bed be a deal breaker for a rental or if you were purchasing a property? Is this a petty thought? The design I'm looking at is their most popular design but the likely bed location faces part of the opening to the ensuite. I can push the wall out 300mm to provide further wall space and having the ensuite door further along , but you still wouldn't have a solid wall for a very large tv centred.

    3) Would you pay $4500 more to raise from 30 courses throughout the house to 31 courses (alfresco/garage always being 3 courses lower). Or save the money and leave it at 30 course (27c garage/alfreso)? For a rental I don't think it would matter in terms of fiancial return (would make a visual impact). But for resale value do you think I'm limiting myself if i goto sell in 10,15 years? Is it worth saving or investing that extra money. It's quite abit on my budget as far as an investment currently, but if this is a no brainer for insurance if I resale in 10 years, I'll take it. That said I hope to hold onto the property as a cash flow cow if things go well? Just incase plans change....

    Only cost me $990 promo to bump up2 courses from the standard 28 courses to 30, so the extra course bump up sure is expensive at $4,500... if I leave the promo out and go straight to 31 courses in living, entrance and dining I could do this for the promo price. I think the garage/alfresco would follow up to 28c in that case?


    4) Would you invest $1,500 to upgrade from double course to single course external bricks? Would it add long term potential resale value? Probably a no for a rental but wondering if its good capital resale insurance to pay the upgrade to single course?

    Thanks for any advice.
     
    Last edited: 7th Jul, 2015
  2. bob shovel

    bob shovel Well-Known Member

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    18th Jun, 2015
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    5,377
    Location:
    Somewhere in the land of Oz
    Few detailed questions but as a quick reply for now. What do the neighbours have? Good to keep on par or done bargain extras without over capitalising.
    You mentioned resale, how long will you hang onto it? If long term do the things you see as a benefit for rent. Done of those extras won't increase value significantly but may help rent or vise versa
     
  3. SaberX

    SaberX Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    29th Jun, 2015
    Posts:
    197
    Location:
    WA
    No idea about timeframe but assuming building a portfolio from scratch id hope it stays a blue chip cash flow property. Meaning id be happy to hold onto it 5,10,15 yrs etc if upkeep is maintable and your getting return on it.

    Neighborhood would be piara waters. feels like a middle. Class.sort suburb with prices on avg starting om 500k plus easily?
     
  4. SaberX

    SaberX Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    29th Jun, 2015
    Posts:
    197
    Location:
    WA
    Anyone else with thoughts on the OP?

    Another design item I'd love some experience/wisdom words on:

    5) Pushing the zero boundary garage in 10-20 cm i.e. shaving 10 cm off the garaage, 10cm off entrance. Supposedly won't notice but it saves you $600 or $900 (forgot which, probably the latter) in costs for not being boundary based. Thoughts? Will the little 10 cm gap between fence and garage cause any issues down track? I can't see any issues having 10 cm less garage width anyway?

    6) Would you do soakwells and crossovers yourself? At first I heard from many advising soakwells were much cheaper DIY, but a boutique builder contact said to definitely let the builder do it as planning an dlocation before the block built was very important supposedly. Mentioned soil compaction, site access for equipment, and location planning as the advantages of going builder than DIY? Thoughts?

    Crossover my current builder says he does his with the builder on IP. Supposedly alot more hassle free and the 6m driveway allowance would probably form all of my crossover anyway (just pay for the underlay) given it's a 4.5 m set back driveway.


    Thanks