I own a late 1960's brick veneer, single story duplex in Melbourne with a stud party wall between habitable rooms. I would like to put these on separate titles. Does anyone here have any tips or experience on methods of amending the party wall to meet Victorian building regulations? Looking to determine the most cost-effective method...
Fire wall must extend from the footings to the underside of the roof covering (& sometimes beyond) Check you comply with all distances from fire source features. Read the Building Code of Oztraya and consult a building certifier for guidance.
The easiest product might be lift shaft liner which will meet the fireproofing requirements and take up the least amount of space and least cost. It will need to be assessed, "designed" and certified.
Thanks all - I was hoping there was a Gyprock type product and there is! Thanks @Westminster Gyprock Shaft Liner panels - Gyprock anyone know a good building certifier in Melbourne's SE suburbs that I can consult on this job?
Great info here, I have a client with an unauthorised Secondary Dwelling (Granny Flat attached to main dwelling) and it will need a fire rated wall to separate them.
Not sure how it compares but I though that Gyprock Fyrcheck was the go to product for this. Gyprock Fyrchek plasterboard - Gyprock
@Mark77 - iirc fyrechek requires 2 X 2 X 16 mm layers on both sides of the wall with a 25mm gap (about 115 mm additional wall thickness, if that's not an issue.
The rooms abutting the party wall are just bedrooms, so an additional 115mm should be fine spread between each
The following are here we cut a building in halve and built a double brick wall between the house and the granny flat but only inside the granny flat. The tenant in the house remained in place as ith the double brick wall we didn't have to touch the house side gyprock wall. https://www.somersoft.com/media/general_009.4569/full https://www.somersoft.com/media/minwip9.4568/full https://www.somersoft.com/media/minwip8.4567/full https://www.somersoft.com/media/minwip5.4565/full https://www.somersoft.com/media/minwip2.4563/full https://www.somersoft.com/media/general_064.4555/full https://www.somersoft.com/media/general_056.4553/full
Just a side question...if I was short on space and wanted to put up the thinnest wall (with acoustic properties) between two bedrooms, what material would I use? Would prefer a single skin rather than the typical timber framed wall with "air" and insulation in between.
Using low density (ie cheap) insulation is also highly ineffective. Insulation with a high acoustic absorption property within the common wall that is tightly and correctly fitted (no gaps and not touching both sides of wall) must be considered. Insulation should address approx 75% of noise if done well. Adding mass to both walls (32mm per side using two layers of gyprock acoustic sheets) would involve more cost but likely address a further 15%+ Acoustics as a rule involves diminishing returns for increasing cost. The "last" Db costs far more than the first. Db level is not linear. A sound that has double the Db is not twice as loud. It will be far worse...eg 30Db = 1,000 and 40Db = 10,000 and 60Db = 1,000,000
I don't know of any single skin walls that are thinner than a stud wall (timber or steel). There is plenty of wall boards but as they aren't large enough to cover the span of a bedroom they need a frame and therefore they are double sided.
Ships use steel. Cruise ships use laminated panels. Often aluminium. Norac » Products Cant imagine its cheap. Additional panel concept Additional panel concept for installation on existing walls. Ideal for refurbishing purposes, and where a better sound reduction between cabins is required. Thickness 20 mm only.