Fire rated stud wall

Discussion in 'Renovation & Home Improvement' started by timetoact, 1st Sep, 2020.

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  1. timetoact

    timetoact Well-Known Member

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    Hoping for some advice here, first time renovation.

    We are building a garage which was originally going to be brick veneer all sides. We ended up going for a stud wall on the boundary side as the location means we will never see it and it reduced cost.

    Our private certifier has asked for
    "Fire separation with a fire resistance level FRL 60/60/60 is required between the garage and dwelling, either to the outside face of the garage wall adjacent to the eastern boundary or between the internal garage and dwelling walls – Please note plans with the proposed method of fire separation and forwad a specification for bricks or other lightweight construction that will achieve this building code requirement."

    To start with, all of my providers have fobbed off on to each other. Engineer, architect, builder. So I am interested in opinions on who should be providing this.

    Secondly, the builder has reluctantly sought advice form their Boral rep and has now advised we will need to use Firewall, an industrial product which will require a metal stud wall instead of timber. Which will obviously increase the price...

    So my second question for any builders or those knowledgeable on these matters is; Is this a bit overkill and can a stud wall be made FRL 60/60/60 with timber studs and suitable fire resistant material?

    Many thanks in advance.
     
  2. Mark F

    Mark F Well-Known Member

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    I don't have a definitive answer but I expect that the small additional cost of metal framing will pale into insignificance against the cost of a suitable thickness of non-combustible cladding.
     
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  3. Westminster

    Westminster Tigress at Tiger Developments Business Member

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    I can answer the last question with a yes it is possible but I can't give you the exact details as I'm not a fire engineer.

    There is a number of products which meet the 60/60/60 on the wall - also remember that it does need to carry up into the roof for around 1m

    Products which should assist
    https://www.jameshardie.com.au/prod...e-&-acoustic-wall-systems-zerolot-wall-system
    About MGO Board - MGO Building Supplies
    Gyprock solutions for shaft and service walls
    https://knauf.solutions/products/plasterboard/knauf-shaftliner/
     
  4. timetoact

    timetoact Well-Known Member

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    Thanks both, much appreciated.
     
  5. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

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    Fire sees all and knows all. What brain surgeon decided to depart from the plan without reviewing fire compliance? It won't save you much now, possibly cost you more. Also note that this needs to extend back to 1.x m from the boundary (or whatever is noted in the building code).

    FRL 60/60/60 is a standard, there are plenty of products and standard design details which meet this standard. You cannot depart from the standard or it is non-compliant. The trade who erects the material is the one to certify that they have complied with the standard.

    This may contain a typical series of compliant details: Linky or Binky or Dinky.

    Note that Fire resistant materials need to be on both sides of the wall not just the outside.
     
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  6. Paul@PAS

    Paul@PAS Tax, Accounting + SMSF + All things Property Tax Business Plus Member

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    Metal framing isnt that expensive and is common to new homes now. But dont try to fix anything to the wall unless you can use a hollow wall anchor on a lining You cant just screw into a stud.

    www.truecore.com.au and read tricks of the trade which covers power, fixing linings and plumbing
     
  7. timetoact

    timetoact Well-Known Member

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    Well, the brain surgeon was the engineer, based off my brief to reduce cost where possible due to other aspects which are making this one bloody expensive garage. However there is more to the story and the demo and rebuild is going to add a lot of value to the property.

    Anyway, the engineer specified stud wall but then is washing his hands of the fire compliance, saying it is up to the builder to build it to the building code of Australia. Builder says, he is always provided the fire spec and builds accordingly. The architect says effectively the same as the engineer, in that there are multiple products that can be used to achieve 60/60/60 and it is up to the builder which brands/products he prefers to use.

    The client says - someone bloody take responsibility and make it happen!
    So the builder has provide the above spec at an increased cost.

    But why would he have specced a boundary wall that wasn't fire compliant in the first place...???

    Thanks for your input and links, much appreciated.
     
  8. timetoact

    timetoact Well-Known Member

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    Good to know, thanks!
     
  9. Scott No Mates

    Scott No Mates Well-Known Member

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    He was asked for cheap not compliant :confused:

    If the engineer drew a wall, there would have been a note in the specs about it, afterall there is a whole sheet devoted to the specs on the plans. The certifier is right to be asking the question.
     
  10. timetoact

    timetoact Well-Known Member

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    No the builder wasn't asked for cheap, cheap is not a word I use. Plus the cost effectiveness was a discussion with the engineer not the builder. Why over engineer a wall that will never be seen by anyone...

    As for compliant, that is a legal requirement not a decision

    The Engineering plans do not specify the fire rating otherwise I wouldn't be having this discussion. Of course the certifier is right, that's his job...???
     
  11. timetoact

    timetoact Well-Known Member

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    Thanks to all for replying.
    The solution has been to stick to timber stud wall and use Boral OutRWall product.

    Cost increase is negligible.
     
  12. Stoffo

    Stoffo Well-Known Member

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    So, who approved the construction/building approval (based on provided drawings)?
    If it was the private certifier I'd be rather upset !

    Option, leave it open and call it a carport, then close it in (as an unapproved alteration later ! Holding for 7+ years...)