Cladding inspo

Is that still doable now to clad over? Are some builders/asbestos guys removing it all rather than fixing to it?
Have toyed with the idea but think i'll get rid of it all upfront and make re-plumb walls etc

 

Unless you're planning to knock it down in the foreseeable future, i see no reason to remove it.
Besides, it makes the exterior wall extra solid due to two layers of cladding right

I did this back in 2013. Have rules been put in place to state that asbestos must be removed?

Also keep in mind the asbestos may also be keeping the frame solid. I remember a mate told me about a garage he was renovating. The owner wanted the asbestos removed, so he got it removed and the timber frame was wobbly as! (With the asbestos cladding it was solid as a rock!).

 

i am going to look into this! I only want to do the facade to begin with. That would be with a modern cladding. the sides are not visible so they will get painted or if im keen an acrylic render perhaps.

@radson do you know which one you used? The BGC seems to come in sheets rather than single lenghts. How does the finished look compare? Seem more cost effective - approx half the price/m2. provided im looking at the correct ones. Stria vs duragroove

 

The bracing had probably been removed and adding a bit of ezy - brace would solve the problem rather than hoping that the cladding doesn't flex and crack under wind loading.

 

@bob shovel

Ill be there in a week to confirm. Definitely in lengths. We chose 300m widths with a more 'modern' overlap but I cant recall the specifics at this time.

 

Double take such a good facelift!!!

 

we are still going with this one. looking at the Axon vertical (@Westminster )
We have found a builder ready to smash out before christmas (touch wood)
Ill get photos once we settle
Asbestos from the roof and front facade removed.
Internal walls changed up. going from a 4x1 to 5x2.... second bathroom non functioning till cocaine cassy shows up with the goods

 

@bob shovel

I think we ended up with Stratum 300 mm plank. Its on one side of the house already and I love it.

They havent started the front yet but double glazed windows are now in

 

I would install blueboard, set the joins with setting compound and then render with ACRYLIC render which can be tinted to almost any colour you want.

In regards to the cladding I really like the matrix cladding at the moment and then the scyon Syria cladding in the 300mm board. We do all sorts of cladding with work.

 

do you butt the blue board tioght or is it best to leave 5-10mm gap and then set? to allow some movment?

nice! be sure to keep us updated. the house has lots of character

 

That looks good upstairs. Unfortunately matrix won't work for me as the windows are to big.
The downstairs windows in the photo are unusual, bit small!

The front windows of mine are 3x1.5m and there's 3 of them

 

I reckon you can't go wrong with the scyon Stria 300mm boards. Or even the scyon axon boards if you have big long run walls.

 

I need to learn more. Are you still able to clad over the top? I was looking at using James Hardie axon sheeting.
One area that is a little problamatic is that the shack we are buying is weatherboard for the bottom 1/3 and old fibro cladding on top.
Is anyone willing to share what their costs were?

 

When recladding over the top did you need to put batten boards up. If so do you liquid nail them on and then fire into that or ummm... yeah, I'm wondering if pp clad over the top and set up the battens and fire them into the studs through the asbestos sheeting.
Bob shovel?
And the houses on here look awesome by the way! Love the work done on these fibro shacks.

 

Whats the rough m2 rate for the colour bond matt interlocking stuff? Anyone recommend good mob in Sydney that can supply and install?

looking at doing about 60m2 worth of walls and 60m2 worth of roof.

Cheers

 

Are you looking to do all around or just front?
Axon prices available on bunnings website. $50-60/m2 from memory. Double materials to cover install (very rough guide)

@Westminster finished product. Now more landscaping and better day time photos

 

I'm not a carpenter but I would nail the battens in as depending on the type of cladding it can get pretty heavy and liquid nails won't hold the battens on. If you have different depth profile to the weatherboard and the fibro then it's probably just easiest to take the whole lot off then go over it as you'd need to pack out the battens to make it all one depth. Then you'll have to put trim in around windows to cover the gap ect etc
Whilst you have taken it all off it's a great time to put insulation in.

 

Hey - looks awesome!!! Is that Ironstone on the walls too?

 

Bob shovel- That looks great!
We are buying a home with 1/3 weatherboards and 2/3 fibro (asbstos sheeting). So It will have to be done all around as there is quite a lot of rot in the boards & windows will also need replacing.
I was wondering if you liquid nails the battern boards on because I know you can't really nail into the asbestos sheeting (one because of the fibres and two, because the darn stuff breaks).